2005-10-07: DCR 1990 Verkostung

Verkostungsnotiz Domaine Romanée Conti 1990

2005-10-07 Restaurant Le Ciel/Weinagentur Czizek

If you wake up in the morning with an intense fine Havanna cigar aftertaste without having smoked one last evening you can be sure of the excellent quality of the red Burgundies you have drunken last night.
I had to wait several years to find an opportunity to attend (with as far as possible "reasonable" costs) a DRC 1990 tasting I was very interested in since I have heard from the super natural powers of the Romanée-Conti bottling of this vintage.
The tasting was conducted in a nice separate small room of the restaurant Le Ciel in the Grand Hotel in Vienna/Austria. After a glass of Champagne and the first two courses of our menu the tasting startet. The wines were decanted and immediately served single blind (last flight double blind) in Riedel Vinum Burgundy glasses.

Flight #1:

1990 Dujac, Echézeaux, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light garnet, brilliant, fine tears. Slightly sweet dry fruit in the nose, bit dusty. Medium to slim body, echo of sweet sour drops taste, hidden melting acidity, good structure, persistent smoky tannins. Very long finish, smoky persistent tannins, aftertaste slightly bitter. Very good start for the first wine of a great tasting. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92.

1990 Arnoux Robert, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light garnet, brilliant, nice tears. Vivid dark red fruit in the nose, slightly chemical touch, later on floral note with a hint of herbs. Medium body, bit flat, slightly sweet red fruit, good acidity behind, soft tannins. Medium to short finish, soft velvety tannins, persistent. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 89

1990 Romanée-Conti, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light ruby, brilliant, nice long legs. Cool dark red fruit, slightly ascending alcohol, bit opulent. Medium body, very soft and round, bit dark red fruit, tannins a bit coarse. Medium finish, fruity tannins, slightly sour in the aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.

1990 Romanée-Conti, Grand Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Medium garnet, brilliant, nice tears. Ripe soft velvety fruit in the nose, melting touch, very decent. Medium body, very gently soft fruit, bit broad, some good tannins. Medium finish, bit coarse tannins and some fruit in the aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90

1990 Dujac, Bonnes Mares, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Very light ruby, brilliant, nice tears. Very decent almost neutral nose, hint of silky red fruit. Medium body, very spicy red fruit, very fine tannins, decent acidity, very good structure. Long finish, fine smoky tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92

1990 Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, bit of rosé, brilliant, nice tears. Bit of barnyard, raw meat, ascending alcohol. Medium body, sweet sour drops, slightly off note, melting acidity, good but bit coarse tannins. Medium finish, good tannins, slightly metallic aftertaste. Seems to be basically a very good wine but this is a bad bottle. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 5 for overall = total score of 86

Flight #1 was in total a very interesting beginning, especially the wines from Dujac are quite nice to drink now with may be a slight preference for the Echezéaux. The DRC wines were pleasant but not very exciting and rather inconspicuous.

Flight #2:

1990 Armand, Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru, Pommard, Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France: Medium brilliant ruby, good tears. Restrained dark nose, bit yoghurt, fast changing to the smell of fresh fermented grape juice. Medium to medium full body, massive velvety tannins, juicy dark fruit, good but coarse acidity, in total rather rustic. Nice finish, bit coarse tannins, juicy fruit, persistent. Obviously defect bottle, development of the nose quite obscure. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 11? for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 88

1990 Leroy, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, fat tears. Classic PN-nose, silky sweet dark red fruit, bit soft. Medium finish, dark sweet acidity, velvety tannins, slightly sweet fruit. Medium finish, sweet fruity aftertaste, bit of coarse tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 89.

1990 Romanée-Conti, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Slightly cheesy nose, cool, silky. Medium body, silky dark sweet fruit, soft melting acidity, silky tannins, very good balance. Long finish, persistent fine smoky tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92

1990 Gros Jean, Richebourg, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Nose after raw smoked pork, cool silky, dark roasted coffee. Medium to slim body, powerful fruity acidity, red fruit, fine tannins. Medium finish, sour fruity aftertaste, may be a hint too much acidity. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 90

1990 Romanée-Conti, Romanée St.-Vivant, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light brilliant garnet, good tears. Very decent cool silky nose, very fine red fruit. Medium to slim body, massive fine velvety tannins, fruit rather hidden, same for acidity, slightly unbalanced. Long finish, massive velvety but slightly green tannins, aftertaste bit hard. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90

1990 Arnoux Robert, Les Suchots 1er Cru, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, some brick, brilliant, fat tears. Fine red raspberry fruit in the nose, fine velvety. Medium body, slightly sweet bit vulgar red fruit, hint of acidity, intense smoky tannins. Long finish, very persistent tannins, slightly disagreeable sweet aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 88.

In total Flight #2 was not as interesting as Flight #1 with the exception of the DRC Richebourg - excellent bottle with DRC signature finish and aftertaste.
The Armand Epeneaux was a bottle of my cellar - I was always a bit disappointed from this wine and wanted to check it in a corresponding environment. Again it did not show well enhanced by the fact that it was a defect bottle. This wine is the ugly duckling in my wine cellar and I think it well never became a beautiful swan.
The Leroy Richebourg was for me just another Leroy I did not find of any interest – although I have to admit I had not this many.
The DRC Romanée St.-Vivant I found also rather not convincing.

Flight #3 :

1990 Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Rhone, France: Medium garnet, brilliant, hesitant tiers. Barnyard, cess pool, developing into herbs and vegetables. Medium to medium full body, bit fat dark red fruit, good acidity, massive slightly opulent tannins. Long finish, intense persistent velvety sweet tannins. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92.

1991 Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, medium to dense tears. Decent fine smoky red fruit, very elegant. Medium body, excellent structure, elegant red fruit, decent silky acidity, finest silky tannins. Very long finish, perfect tannins, very persistent. Great bottle. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 19 for taste + 9 for overall = total score of 95.

1990 Romanée-Conti, La Tache, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Brilliant light ruby, medium tears. Very decent silky nose, cool, hint of barnyard. Medium body, bit coarse tannins, hint of vulgar fruit, acidity bit ostensible, slightly hot. Medium finish, slightly hot. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 90.

1990 Romanée-Conti, La Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, bit brick, clear, medium tears. Fine dark red fruit in the nose, very decent velvety, persistent. Medium body, melting acidity, bit intense red fruit, good tannins, structure yet not perfect. Very long finish, fine smoky persistent tannins, bit of fruit in the aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 92

1990 Ponsot, Clos de la Roche, Morey St.-Denis, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, good tears. Hint of menthol in the nose, fine red fruit, decent velvety. Medium to medium full body, intense dark red fruit, may be a tad too intense, hidden acidity, smoky tannins incredible mouth impregnating. Extra long finish, fruity silky smoky persistent tannins. In total a tad too intense for me - else a great wine. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 19 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 94.

1990 Vogüé, Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Chambolle-Musigny, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Powerful light ruby, brilliant, good tears. Nose bit resinous, slightly opulent fruit, cherry, hint of herbs. Medium body, powerful but fine silky acidity, bit red fruit, very mouth impregnating fine tannins. Very long finish, fine persistent smoky tannins, aftertaste slightly sour fruit. Great wine but not perfect. Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 9 for overall = total score of 95.

1990 Rousseau Armand, Chambertin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light and bricky garnet, clear, fat tears. Soft red fruity nose, fine malty velvety. Medium body, ripe slight caramelized fruit, beautiful melting acidity, velvety tannins, excellent balance. Long finish, fine red dark fruit in the aftertaste, velvety tannins. This wine is on top now and excellent to drink. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 93

Flight #3 was a bit disturbed by a timing error concerning the main course of our menu - it arrived in the middle of the tasting process and crashed a bit with the fine aromas and flavours of our wines but was else as impressive and interesting as hoped for with the (dare I say expected?) exception of both DRC 1990 wines, especially the La Tache was rather unimpressive - and this after a corked first bottle (we were lucky though because we had a second bottle ready).
But not only the La Tache showed rather unimpressive (at least for me) - La Romanée-Conti failed to live up to the expectations too and this not only for me: It was the choice for the wine of the evening for only one out of 12 tasters and this most probably by chance.
The first bottle (Beaucastel) in this flight was a pirate from my cellar known for his reliability and some Burgundy like features and was intended as benchmark wine. It took the challenge with grace and fitted very well in this exclusive environment - only the rather specific nose gave it away.
The second bottle was a generous contribution from another participant and for me the wine of the evening: La Tache 91 - quite near to a perfect wine for me with extremely fine silky tannins.
The Ponsot Clos de la Roche was quite impressive too - for me a bit too impressive and too intense.
The Vogüé Musigny seemed incredible young but it was stored in an especially cold cellar and had therefore an extremely slow development.
The wine with the may be greatest hedonism factor was the Rousseau Chambertin - rather far advanced in development in comparison with the other wines, full maturity with an abundance of ripe aromas and flavors and an excellent structure.

Flight #4:

1990 Rousseau Armand, Les Cazetiers 1er Cru, Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light garnet, hint of brick, fat tears. Cool cheesy nose, herbs, liquor, hint of barnyard. Medium body, fine velvety tannins, good fruity acidity. Medium finish, slightly sour tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.

1990 Vogüé, Les Amoureuses 1er Cru, Chambolle-Musigny, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, brilliant, fat tears. Cool silky red fruity nose, very fine. Medium to slim body, bit intense acidity, coarse tannins, decent red fruit. Medium long finish, slightly sour velvety tannins. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 90

1990 Engel René, Echézeaux, Vosne-Romanée, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France: Light ruby, hint of brick, brilliant, fat tears. Very classic fine PN-nose, fine velvety tannins. Medium body, massive acidity, bit coarse tannins, low in fruit. Long finish, bit coarse tannins. Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 89

Flight #4 was not very lucky: Three a bit simpler wines were intended as company for the main course already consumed so this was a bit of a let down. The dessert did little help, but it was at least chocolate based and this goes often easy with red wines but not especially good with Burgundies. I tried a rescue with some red coated cheese varieties like Epoisses and Munster. But the number of meanwhile tasted (and to some degree drunken - my glasses of Dujac Echézeaux, DRC Richebourg, DRC La Tache 91 and Rousseau Chambertin were empty after the tasting) wines was a bit too much for me and so my notes are even less detailed as usual and the scores may be a bit erratic. The Vogüé Les Amoureuses was anyway a bit disappointing compared with other bottles from other vintages I had so far.

In total a rather weak performance of the DRC 1990 wines (with exception of the Richebourg) for unknown reasons – all bottles were from the same mixed DRC case and there is no reason to question the origin and cellaring conditions.

2005-10-09/Schriftführer e.h.