20060612 - CdP 2003 Graz

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003

Montag, 12.Juni 2005, 19.00 Uhr - „Im Fünften“-Steirerhof/Graz

24 wines to taste with the chance to taste wines I have in my own cellar without having to touch them.

Bottle variation and faults aside - more or less according to the expectations of a very hot year resulting in hot wines sometimes more and often less good to drink for me.

Some wines stood out:

- Rayas: Completely individual overall sensoric impression, seemingly a wine from another planet

- Pegau Reserve: Smooth and silky and with its international touch not very typical for this producer, but very interesting

- Pegau Da Capo: Bit hot as ever, but this vintage is so far the best for me (did not like 1998 and 2000 very much)

- Beaurenard Boisrenard: Certainly a bit too much from everything - but very balanced bordering on elegance. This is as good as Mordoree Reine des Bois should be but is not

- Bois De Boursan/Versino: Quite a surprise. The simple regular cuvée is a classic Chateauneuf du Pape with only a little hint of being hot.

Only one bottle out of the 24 had a serious bottle fault problem: Beaucastel.

Notes:

2003 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Brilliant medium garnet, fat tears.
Bouquet: Primary slightly vulgar dark red fruit, simple.
Taste: Medium body, cooked fruit, bit brandy, intense slightly coarse tannins. Very long finish, bit bitter, coarse coating tannins, hot aftertaste.
Overall: Cooked hot fruit.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 11 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 87.
Wine#1/Flight#1

2003 Clos St.Jean, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium garnet, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Velvety sweet dark fruit, bit cooked.
Taste: Medium body, bitter fruit, unobtrusive acidity, persistent tannins, vermouth. Long finish, bitter tannins, hot.
Overall: Bitter and hot.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 11 for bouquet + 15 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 85.
Wine#2/Flight#1

2003 Domaine de Marcoux, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light ruby, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Decent bit cool dark fruit, hint of coming complexity.
Taste: Medium body, silky fruit, bit smooth, fine tannins, low key acidity. Long finish, palate coating slightly bitter tannins, bit hot.
Overall: Will get better with ageing.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 89.
Wine#3/Flight#1

2003 Les Cailloux/André Brunel, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Smooth red fruit with fermentation aromas, bit sweet, yoghurt.
Taste: Medium body, bit sweet red fruit, fine tannins, decent acidity. Long finish, sweet bitter tannins, bit hot.
Overall: May be some microbial problems here.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 11 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 86.
Wine#4/Flight#1

2003 Roger Sabon, Prestige, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium ruby, violet core, fat tears.
Bouquet: Restrained barnyard note, warm velvety, bit hot cooked fruit, gains fruit in the glass.
Taste: Medium body, bit hot tannins, hidden acidity, some red fruit getting vulgar in the glass. Long finish, fine decent acid tannins in the aftertaste.
Overall: Slightly cooked taste.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.
Wine#1/Flight#2

2003 Domaine Charvin, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium ruby, vera fat tears.
Bouquet: Sweet red fruity nose, decent, silky, elegant.
Taste: Medium body, very brandy, coarse tannins, red sour fruit. Long finish, coarse velvety hot tannins.
Overall: Nice nose, else too hot for my taste.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 88.
Wine#2/Flight#2

2003 Domaine Jean Royer, Préstige, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium garnet, brilliant, fat tears.
Bouquet: Hint of acet aldehyde, dark red fruit, bit smooth.
Taste: Medium body, nice acidity, red fruit, bit coarse tannins, hot note nicely balanced with acidity. Long finish, coarse persistent tannins.
Overall: Nice but not great, troubled nose.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 89.
Wine#3/Flight#2

2003 Domaine Bois de Boursan/Versino, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light ruby, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Fine cigar smoke , very beautiful decent red fruit, cedar wood, very interesting, animalic hint.
Taste: Medium to plump body, slightly oxidative, velvety bit hot tannins, acidity and fruit decent. Long finish, fine palate impregnating tannins, slightly hot.
Overall: Great nose, interesting wine.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 15 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 93.
Wine#4/Flight#2

2003 Château de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Powerful ruby, brilliant, very fat tears.
Bouquet: Sweet fruity nose, raspberry syrup, bit moldy.
Taste: Medium to full body, sweet dark fruit, velvety tannins, bit chemical mouth coating. Long finish, persistent tannins.
Overall: May be not a cork but certainly a bottle fault.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 88.
Wine#1/Flight#3

2003 Domaine Bois de Boursan, Cuvée des Felix, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium ruby, light rim, very fat tears.
Bouquet: Bit of compost heap, sweet dark fruit, some potential.
Taste: Medium body, bit hot, tannins bit bitter, sweet fruit, sweet-sour drops. Very long finish, smoky persistent tannins.
Overall: Nice wine.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#2/Flight#3

2003 Clos des Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Carmine, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Very decent phenolic note, dense, potential complex.
Taste: Medium body, cornel cherry brandy note, coarse tannins. Long finish, coarse palate impregnating tannins, brandy in the aftertaste.
Overall: Cornel cherry brandy.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 88.
Wine#3/Flight#3

2003 Domaine du Pégaü, Cuvée Réservée, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Very dark ruby, nearly opaque, very fat tears.
Bouquet: Delicate, lactic hint, dark cool moss.
Taste: Medium body, sweet dark fruit, liquorice, bit smooth, silky tannins, sweet note, sweet-sour drops. Long finish, silky persistent tannins, sweet-sour fruit in the aftertaste.
Overall: Smooth and elegant, international style touch.
Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 92.
Wine#4/Flight#3

2003 Domaine Beaurenard, Cuvée Boisrenard, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium purple, very fat tears.
Bouquet: Dense dark fruit, bit honey and resin, complex.
Taste: Full body, dark fruit with brandy note, intense tannins, bit coarse but great balance. Long finish, persistent tannins, bit hot aftertaste.
Overall: Intense, fat, hot but with some elegance.
Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 94.
Wine#1/Flight#4

2003 Clos du Mont-Olivet, Cuvée Papet, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium ruby, medium tears.
Bouquet: Red fruit with fermentation aromas, bit ascending alcohol.
Taste: Medium body, decent red fruit, very fine intense palate impregnating tannins, acidity well hidden. Very long finish, hot and intense persistent tannins.
Overall: Nose should come around, else great wine.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#2/Flight#4

2003 Domaine de la Mordorée, Cuvée de la Reine des Bois, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Dense purple, very fat tears, tints the glass.
Bouquet: Phenolic nose, honey, resin, very dark fruit, hint of fermentation aromas.
Taste: Medium to full body, bitter velvety tannins, dark fruit, bit hot and sweet. Very long finish, hot palate impregnating tannins.
Overall: Slightly unbalanced. Ageing will hopefully help.
Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#3/Flight#4

2003 Les Cailloux/André Brunel, Cuvée Centenaire, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Light red fruit, bit green, sweet raspberry note.
Taste: Medium to full body, sweet dark red fruit, note of berries, velvety persistent tannins. Long finish, smoky very persistent tannins, bit hot.
Overall: Nose needs some development, else wine of interest.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#4/Flight#4

2003 Domaine de la Janasse, Chaupin, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium ruby, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Acet aldehyde, dark fruit, rum punch.
Taste: Plump body, soft in fruit, acidity and tannins, hot. Medium finish, hot aftertaste, persistent tannins.
Overall: Quite hot.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 11 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 87.
Wine#1/Flight#5

2003 Roger Sabon, Le Secret de Sabon, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Brilliant medium ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Slightly woody dark fruit, not very expressive, lemon note, vanilla.
Taste: Plump body, sweet-sour drops, soft mouth impregnating tannins, good balance. Long finish, fine silky persistent tannins in the aftertaste.
Overall: Bit short of outstanding.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 11 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 89.
Wine#2/Flight#5

2003 Domaine de Marcoux, Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light purple, clear, fat tears.
Bouquet: Touch of wood solvent, dark red fruit, not without attraction.
Taste: Plump body, brandy fruit, velvety persistent tannins, bit hot. Long finish, hot mouth impregnating tannins.
Overall: Bit hot.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 89.
Wine#3/Flight#5

2003 Château Rayas, Réservée, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Light garnet, very transparent, fat tears.
Bouquet: Floral, fruity, spicy - great nose, kirsch, green coriander.
Taste: Medium body, fine red berry fruit, good acidity, good balance.Very long finish, intense mouth impregnating tannins.
Overall: Very individual, outstanding wine.
Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 15 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 93.
Wine#4/Flight#5

2003 Pierre Usseglio, Cuvée Mon Aieul, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Brilliant medium ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Some vegetal stink, cool dark fruit, bit alcoholic.
Taste: Medium full body, brandy note, behind beautiful red fruit with nice acidity, velvety tannins. Long finish with persistent tannins.
Overall: Good performance.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 8 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#1/Flight#6

2003 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Réservé, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Medium brilliant purple, fat tears, tints the glass.
Bouquet: Smooth, chestnut puree, fruits in rum, fresh distilled grape brandy.
Taste: Plump body, brandy note, dark fruits in rum, coarse tannins. Long finish, very hot.
Overall: Very hot one.
Score: 50 + 5 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#2/Flight#6

2003 Domaine du Pégaü, Cuvée Da Capo, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Dark clear ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Animal hint, cool dark red fruit, bis ascending alcohol.
Taste: Medium to full body, red fruit, good acidity, bit hot, velvety tannins. Long finish, fine velvety tannins.
Overall: First Da Capo for me only a bit hot, but in total very nice.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 93.
Wine#3/Flight#6

2003 Domaine de la Janasse, Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, France:
Optic: Brilliant medium ruby, fat tears.
Bouquet: Bit brandy like, else nice red fruit, raspberry syrup.
Taste: Medium full body, massive mouth impregnating coarse fruity tannins, bit over ripe, hot. Very long finish, hot mouth impregnating tannins.
Overall: Another hot CdP 2003.
Score: 50 + 4 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 91.
Wine#4/Flight#6

Die Verkostung wurde veranstaltet von:

Gerhard Präsent

Badstrasse 58 ~ A-8063 Eggersdorf/Graz ~ Austria

Tel & Fax: 0 3117 2025 ~ e-mail: praesent@telering.at

2006-06-21/Schriftführer e.h.