Verkostungsnotiz 30.09.2005: Bordeaux
1959
Bordeaux
1959 - still great vintage or already beyond pleasure?
2005-09-30 I had the opportunity to attend a Bordeaux
1959 tasting with according to the books a good chance for some great bottles.
The tasting was situated in one of the best
restaurants in Vienna/Austria (Meinl) and in between the flights we had a
really great menu.
The tasting was conducted very professional with the
use of special decanters to avoid excessive exposure to air.
To make it short: Despite this efforts the may be too
high expectations were not fully met.
General remarks:
- The bottles have been in very good conditions with
one or two possible exceptions
- The optic of most wines was remarkable good. It
would be quite possible to be more generous with points here for such old
wines. But this would only inflate the scores without any meaning for the
quality of the wines
- The favours and aromas of wine are moving targets.
This is especially true for old wines - the changes here are in fast forward
mode
- The taste of the wines did in most cases not match
the nose and the nose was in most cases far better than the taste
- Most wines were rather austere with some exceptions
with rather unpleasant fruityness like the Petrus
- While I like austere wines mostly I prefer them
being austere from the very beginning. The austerity resulting from ageing
(means loosing fruit and remaining acidity and tannins) can be rather
unattractive if the acidity is not very fine and the tannins not very smooth
and soft
- The finish was in most cases dominated by rather
harsh acidity and tannins - it is possible to like this but it seems a rather
rustic feature
- There has to be bottle variation with wines this age
- but for all bottles (except the Pichon) in the wrong direction? Does not
sound plausible
- I did not find any of these wines exceptional
although this should have been the case according to the books. So what was the
cause? Moon phase? Air pressure on the rise? Bad personal constitution? Don't
think so. This is maybe only a snapshot but I think even the very great bottles
of the 1959 vintage are in massive decline.
Detailed tasting notes:
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1994 Chevalier Blanc, Graves,
Bordeaux, France: 81
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:52
pm Author: Wilfried
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1994 Chevalier Blanc, Graves, Bordeaux,
France: Light
yellow, low viscosity. Very decent nose, floral, roses, slight Sherry note.
Medium to slim body, lemon acidity, bit thin. Short finish. Good match with
the glazed sea bass with fresh white beans and thyme oil. Score: 50 + 2 for
optic + 13 for bouquet + 11 for taste + 5 for overall = total score of 81.
Tasted2005Sep. Score81. Bordeaux1959. Flight#1/Wine#1. Single blind. Decanted
2 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Chevalier Blanc, Graves,
Bordeaux, France: 83
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:53
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Chevalier Blanc, Graves, Bordeaux,
France: Golden
yellow, low viscosity. Slightly fat nose, nuts, hint of smoked salmon. Slim body,
lemon acidity, rather thin. Short finish. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for
bouquet + 12 for taste + 6 for overall = total score of 83. Tasted2005Sep.
Score83. Bordeaux1959. Flight#1/Wine#2. Single blind. Decanted 2 hours before
tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Mouton Baron, Pauillac,
Bordeaux, France: 84
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:54
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Mouton Baron, Pauillac, Bordeaux,
France: Medium
ruby, bright, good viscosity. Lovage and sweet dark fruit in the nose, after
a while getting a bit spiky. Rather slim body, high acidity, low fruit,
coarse tannins. Short finish. Surprisingly the only wine of this flight going
well with the Pot au Feu from the calve with fried foie gras. Score: 50 + 3
for optic + 12 for bouquet + 14 for taste + 5 for overall = total score of
84. Tasted2005Sep. Score84. Bordeaux1959. Flight#2/Wine#1. Single blind.
Decanted 2 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Mouton Rothschild,
Pauillac, Bordeaux, France: 86
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:56
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux,
France: Medium
ruby, bit of brick, clear, good viscosity. Massive cassis note in the nose, sweet
dark fruit, slightly overripe. Medium to slim body, bit plump dark fruit,
good acidity, coarse tannins. Medium finish, bit coarse tannins in the
aftertaste. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 15 for taste + 6 for
overall = total score of 86. Tasted2005Sep. Score86. Bordeaux1959.
Flight#2/Wine#2. Single blind. Decanted 2 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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1959 Latour, Pauillac,
Bordeaux, France: 91
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:57
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux,
France: Medium
ruby, brilliant, fat tears. Whiff of cedar in the nose, some cassis behind,
eucalyptus. Medium to slim body, good acidity backbone, bit dark fruit, bit
coarse velvety tannins, touch of bitter chocolate. Medium to long finish,
persistent tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 17 for taste +
7 for overall = total score of 91. Tasted2005Sep. Score91. Bordeaux1959.
Flight#2/Wine#3. Single blind. Decanted 2 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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1959 Lafite Rothschild,
Pauillac, Bordeaux, France: 90
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:58
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, Bordeaux,
France: Medium
ruby, hint of brick, brilliant, good viscosity. Bit of tar, spearmint, some
barnyard, smoky. Medium body, taste slightly overripe fruit, bit too sweet
dark fruit, velvety tannins. Long finish, velvety persistent tannins. Score:
50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 16 for taste + 7 for overall = total
score of 90. Tasted2005Sep. Score90. Bordeaux1959. Flight#2/Wine#4. Single
blind. Decanted 2 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Pichon Longueville Baron,
Pauillac, Bordeaux, France: 90
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:59
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac, Bordeaux,
France: Dark
brilliant ruby, medium tears. Restrained nose slightly after butter, cool velvety,
Carpaccio, green bell pepper. Medium to slim body, massive but fine acidity,
cool velvety tannins. Long finish, velvety persistent tannins. Good match
with big cut prime rib with porcini mushrooms and fried vegetables. This wine
was rather low scored from Parker so I hoped for a rather good wine here and
I was not disappointed. Quite good performance. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13
for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.
Tasted2005Sep. Score90. Bordeaux1959. Magnum. Flight#3/Wine#1. Single blind.
Decanted 3 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Palmer, Margaux,
Bordeaux, France: 90
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:00
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Palmer, Margaux, Bordeaux,
France: Dark garnet,
light rim, bit of brick. First strong barnyard, later on dark fruit, sweet
cherry, hint of lemon, still later a bit spiky. Medium body, sweet dark fruit
with good acidity behind, good balance. Long finish. Score: 50 + 3 for optic
+ 13 for bouquet + 17 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 90.
Tasted2005Sep. Score90. Bordeaux1959. Flight#3/Wine#2. Single blind. Decanted
3 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Cos d'Estournel, St.
Estephe, Bordeaux, France: 82?
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:01
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux,
France: Light
brilliant ruby, fat tears. Slightly spiky chemical nose, hint of lemon -
later on oscillating between hint of cork or not. Slim body, slightly rotten
fruit, harsh tannins. Long finish, bit rotten tannins in the aftertaste. Bad
bottle? Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 12 for bouquet + 13 for taste + 4 for
overall = total score of 82? Tasted2005Sep. Score82? Bordeaux1959.
Flight#3/Wine#3. Single blind. Decanted 3 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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1959 Montrose, St. Estephe,
Bordeaux, France: 89
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:02
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Montrose, St. Estephe, Bordeaux,
France: Light
brilliant ruby, good viscosity. Dark smoky nose, warm green bell pepper.
Medium to slim body, green bell pepper, slightly bitter, velvety tannins.
Long finish, persistent tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet +
16 for taste + 7 for overall = total score of 89. Tasted2005Sep. Score89.
Bordeaux1959. Flight#3/Wine#4. Single blind. Decanted 3 hours before tasting.
Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1959 Petrus, Pomerol,
Bordeaux, France: 86?
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:04
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Petrus, Pomerol, Bordeaux,
France: Dark
garnet with brownish core, clear, fat tears. Very warm velvety nose, mango,
hint of barnyard. Medium to medium full body, massive sweet fruit, plump,
jammy. Long aftertaste, way too sweet. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for
bouquet + 15 for taste + 5 for overall = total score of 86? Tasted2005Sep.
Score86? Bordeaux1959. Served separately. Not blind. Decanted 3 hours before
tasting. Riedel Vinum Riesling glass
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1990 La Fleur de Gay, Pomerol,
Bordeaux, France: 93
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:05
pm Author: Wilfried
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1990 La Fleur de Gay, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France:
Brilliant dark garnet, fat tears. Very
fine decent smoky nose. Medium body, sweet dark fruit, acidity well hidden,
massive but soft tannins, good balance. Very long finish, persistent soft
sweet tannins. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 14 for bouquet + 18 for taste + 8
for overall = total score of 93. Tasted2005Sep. Score93. Bordeaux1959. Bonus
bottle. Served separately. Double blind. Decanted 3 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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1959 Karthauserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg
Riesling TBA, Mosel, Germany: 85
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:06
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
Riesling TBA, Mosel, Germany: Light golden colour, medium tears. Floral nose,
candied rose petals. Medium body, sweet taste with floral note. Short finish,
sweet velvety aftertaste. Good match with nougat cream cake with kumquat and
sorbet. Score: 50 + 2 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 15 for taste + 5 for
overall = total score of 85. Tasted2005Sep. Score85. Bordeaux1959.
Flight#4/Wine#1. Single blind. Decanted 4 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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1959 Yquem, Sauternes,
Bordeaux, France: 88
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Date: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:08
pm Author: Wilfried
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1959 Yquem, Sauternes, Bordeaux,
France:
Brownish red golden colour, clear, oily. Bitter note in the nose like burnt
caramel coating of a creme brulée. Medium to full body, burnt caramel, bit
acidity. Medium finish, bitter caramel, way too sweet aftertaste. No good
match with the dessert and also a failure with a blue cheese as second guess
- simply too sweet. Score: 50 + 3 for optic + 13 for bouquet + 16 for taste +
6 for overall = total score of 88. Tasted2005Sep. Score88. Bordeaux1959.
Flight#4/Wine#2. Single blind. Decanted 4 hours before tasting. Riedel Vinum
Riesling glass
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2005-10-02/Schriftführer e.h.